Feb 28 2014

Miniature Baskets

The dollhouse library is complete, save filling the shelves.  I’ve had a pretty good start when it comes to books and magazines, but what the bottom shelves really needed were baskets.  Inspired by the IKEA cube baskets I use everywhere in my own home, I set out in search of something similar.  Unfortunately, or fortunately, depending on how you look at it, I haven’t been particularly successful in my search.  There are a lot of miniature baskets on the market, but none of the style and size I was searching for.  The solution was obvious- I needed to make my own.  I thought briefly of learning to weave baskets, but since I have no experience at weaving, but quite a bit of experience at crochet, I decided on the latter.

The baskets are crocheted using the tiniest hook I could find, and bamboo and/or hemp cord found in the jewelry department of most big craft stores.  The first several baskets I made were cubes, crocheted and then lined on the inside with bristol board cut to size and wrapped in muslin scraps.  Alternatively you could leave them unlined and use starch to stiffen them, but I really like the added finish of the lining, and it helps to disguise any loose threads left on the interior of the basket.

IMG_4559

IMG_4597

 

The first few baskets I created are shown in the photo above.  After making several cube baskets, I decided to improvise some others as well.  The blue basket below was crocheted in the same manner as the others, but was done using colored raffia.  It requires much more weaving in of the ends, as each strand of raffia would only make it around the basket once or twice, and hooking the material is slightly more tricky as it isn’t consistent the way thread or cording is.  The results, though, are pretty wonderful.  There is a lot of depth in the color, and the finished texture feels just like you’d expect a raffia basket to feel.  The raffia is also much more stiff when crocheted tightly, and didn’t require any extra lining to keep its shape.  The white lining in this case is simply muslin fabric, again, helping to hide all the loose ends and giving the interior a nicely finished feel.

IMG_4608

 

My final basket “experiment” I decided to create one much smaller (equivalent to roughly 6″ in real life) with a lid.  The basket was crocheted in the round, and the lid is simply one round bigger than the base.

IMG_4589IMG_4617

 

 

For those interested, here is a general pattern to follow for the square baskets:

ch – chain stitch   sc- single crochet   blo- back loops only

You may need to play with the size of thread used, as I have a tendency to crochet very tightly.

-Begin with single chain stitch

-8sc in ch, pull tail to tighten loop,  ss in first sc

-ch 1, [sc, 3sc in next sc]x4, ss in first sc of row =16st

-ch 1, [2sc, 3sc in next sc]x4, ss in first sc of row = 24st

-ch 1, 24 blo sc around, ss in first blo sc =24 st

-ch 1, 24 sc around, ss in first sc = 24 st

-Continue sc around for as many rows are you’d like your basket to be tall.  For a cube basket, this would be 8 rows tall including the first blo row.

-To finish, ss across top row, or leave long tail and stitch through each sc for a finish detail.  Weave in all ends.

Variations for addtional detail- try a row of sc in front loops only for a raised detail, or work in a new color at any point to add stripes or a band along the top.

 

If you have any questions, don’t hesitate t ask.  I’d love to see what other people come up with as well!

 

 


Nov 8 2013

Beautiful Australia and New Zealand

I still pinch myself now and again, realizing how amazingly fortunate I’ve been in my world travels.  The love of my life, ulotrichous, keeps getting truly amazing speaking invitations, and while early on I joked that any international travel had to include a spousal ticket, I didn’t at the time realize just how often I would be able to claim the rewards of that “rule”.

Lianza 2013 was held in Hamilton, New Zealand, and in addition to their invitation, it was sandwiched with speaking invites from the State Library in Brisbane, Australia beforehand, and a gig to finish at the State Library in Sydney.  All told, we spent 16 days in warm, sunny spring weather, gawking at sheep and postcard views, exploring awesome cities, and pushing our comfort zone with an amazing tubing trip through the famous Waitomo caves.

Without further ado, photos!  First up, three days in Brisbane, Australia

river walk

brisbane

brisbane botanical garden

IMG_4074

 

Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary

IMG_4131IMG_4104IMG_4095 IMG_4127

 

 

Downtown Brisbane

IMG_4132 IMG_4134

Queensland Art Gallery

IMG_4140 IMG_4150 IMG_4155

 

 

 


Oct 4 2013

Miniature Reading Nook

IMG_4027

 

The dollhouse reading nook is nearly finished, just waiting on its crown moulding and baseboards.  The window seat has a nice padded cushion and throw pillows, and the shelves are being filled with wonderful tiny books.  The pillows and cushion were sewn by hand; tiny beads were used to add tufting details to the seat, and contrast stitching added  detail along the edge of the red pillows.

IMG_4028IMG_4030

 

The window covering was also created by hand.  It was relatively simple to make, but is stationary (I’m going to try making functional roman shades in another room).  I cut a piece of grass paper to the width of the window opening, gave it an accordion fold, and then used thread to hold it in place.  Starting from the base of the shade, simply thread a needle, knot the end,  and draw it through the layers, making sure to end on the back side of the shade.  Once both sides are threaded you can play with it until they are hanging evenly, and then glue in place.  To install the shade, I cut a piece of balsa to  the width of the window opening, glued the shade to it, and then glued the whole thing in place.

This room is particularly special to me, as at least four women in my family have made the miniatures within it.  My grams, Irene Moon,  made the main furniture and inspired most of my choices in decor, my aunt, Alona Moon, created the stone fireplace on the far wall, and my great aunt, Oma Holbrook, painted the watercolors now framed on the wall over the stairs.  Not to sound overly sentimental, but having these small pieces reminds me every day of the amazing family I came from.

 


Oct 3 2013

Strange Dolls in Vermont

IMG_3890

 

This past July I had the opportunity to take a class with an artist I have admired online for quite some time-  Beth Robinson’s Strange Dolls  The intro to doll making class was held at Davis Studio in Burlington, Vermont, right around the corner from the Strange Dolls’ studio, and in the heart of Burlington’s “South End Arts District”.  I stayed in the upstairs apartment of a wonderful couple (found through air b&b) within minutes of the studio, and a very short walk/bike to downtown Burlington and the trail alongside Lake Champlain.  With a bike at my disposal for exploration, two days of doll making class, the inspiring company of other artists, and beautiful (although quite hot) weather, Burlington won me over.

Strange Doll studiostrange doll

IMG_3904IMG_3907IMG_3911

 

Below is the doll I created at the workshop and finished back in my studio.  For display I finished a wooden shadow box in black, with a padded satin fabric background that can be hung on the wall, allowing my “strange doll” to be displayed, and yet still taken out and “played with”.

strange dollstrange closeup

No matter how long I’ve been working in polymer clay (about 16 years now), I always like to meet other artists that work in the medium to trade tips and experiences.  Each brand of clay has its own properties, every artist has their own preferences, favorite tools, methodology, and finishing techniques.  After visiting the Strange Doll studio I felt so inspired, and eager to get back to work on some of the projects I’ve been stuck on.  Struggling with some mixed media pieces, I have ordered apoxie clay, a two part air hardening clay that I have not worked with before, but Beth Robinson uses on some of her one of a kind work.  Talking about clay is my “talking shop”, and having a weekend of shop talk is just what I needed.  Thank you Beth!

 


Oct 1 2013

Kerrytown Kids Art Market

rocket's booth

The Kerrytown Artisan Market happens every Sunday 11-4pm, from early April through mid December.  This past weekend was special though.  In conjunction with the regular market, there was a Kids’ Art Market, giving local kids a chance to see what it’s like to not only make art, but display and sell it!  The photo above shows my daughter at her booth, where she sold her original character drawings on canvas, and as magnets and bookmarks.

IMG_4005

Here she is, so proud of her very first sale!!!  I want to thank this amazing Ann Arbor community for their encouragement and support.  Watching my daughter’s confidence grow with each interaction, and with each customer that took the time to stop and compliment her hard work, or even buy a piece – we are so fortunate to live in this town.  It was not an easy day for a 3rd grader.  Between setup, the show times, and cleanup, it was a nearly 7 hour workday, yet she was able to keep a smile on her face for her customers, and was already planning for future shows and learning from all of the other artists and booths around her.

Keep an eye out for Art by Rocket in the future, with such a perfect first show under her belt, she has big plans for many more to come!

 


Oct 1 2013

Miniature Library

 

This room was in need of stripping, and redoing the electrical as with the rest of the house.  Most of this work was done by my sister before the dollhouse came to me.  I added outlets along the walls, and wired the lights on the ceiling of the kitchen below.

gutted playroom

The colors and feel of the room were based around two things; the stone fireplace created by my aunt circa 1988, and the burgundy furniture my grams built from kits.  The floors are cherry planks laid one at a time.  The beadboard panels were fit to the wall and window, and everything painted white.  The deep blue “wallpaper” is a lightweight cardstock I had amongst my stash.

IMG_3348

With the stairs facing the opposite way as my gramps had installed them, it creates a bit of a nook near the back window.  It seemed in need of a window seat and library.  Built in bookshelves line both side walls of the nook.  They and the window seat are made to a 1/12″ scale depth.  The seat lid lifts off to reveal storage inside.  I’m planning to add shelving above the window for display, and cap the entire built in with crown moulding.

IMG_3344

The books on the top shelves in the nook were part of the original dollhouse, and the other are mostly from shops on etsy.  Be warned that the miniature book selection is pretty awesome, and only search with the full understanding that you may become completely oblivious to time.

Obviously the nook needs a softer spot to read,  so cushions, pillows, and a window covering are up next!

 

 


Sep 27 2013

Frozen Assets Munny Mascot

The 2013/14 hockey season is upon us, and the Frozen Assets are ready!  This will be our 10th season in the MSWHL, (the Pig is proud), and with quite a few new opponents this year it looks to be a good one.  When the illustrious founder of the Assets had to leave for the warmth of Florida, I tried to capture the Pig in all her glory as a going away gift.  Here She is:

IMG_2755 IMG_2751IMG_2757IMG_2763

 

She is based on the pig Munny body.  The ears, snout,and body are unchanged.  The teeth are still the original Munny head, and the lips are made of polymer clay.  The skates are polymer clay boots and laces, with a basswood holder and aluminum blade.    The jersey is sewn from an old scrap of jersey fabric, with handstitched edging and lettering.  The hockey stick is made of balsa, the blade of the stick carved with an exacto blade.  The remaining details are done using acrylic paint, and the entire figure has several coats of varnish to give it a durable finish.

To end with our (admittedly somewhat strange) chant,   Go Money!!!

 

 


Sep 13 2013

Unnecessary Detail

IMG_3984

Once the bed is made, the mattress doesn’t show.  So why make it detailed?  Well, because unnecessary level of detail is my specialty of course!  Seeing several beautifully done mattresses on Etsy, I was was inspired.

IMG_3973

For this project you will need:

  • foam piece cut to fit your bedframe
  • white muslin or other fabric as the mattress cover
  • scissors
  • fabric glue
  • needle & thread
  • five small buttons or beads for tufting.

IMG_3975IMG_3977

 

To begin, wrap the foam with fabric as you would gift wrap a box.  There’s not any one “right” method for this.  Use a small amount of fabric glue to help keep the fabric in place, but avoid putting glue on the edges, as it will make the edge stitching much more difficult.

Once the top and sides of the mattress are wrapped, it is time to add the tufting details.  To do this, simply thread your needle and push it through the bottom (uncovered at this point) of the mattress.  Reference the finished photo to see the placement of the tufts.  Thread a small bead or button onto the thread, and pass the needle back through to the backside of the mattress again, pulling just enough to create a small tufting effect.  Repeat for each of the tufts; 5 is a good number for a twin bed.

After the tufting looks as you want it to, cut a small rectangle of fabric to cover over the bottom of the mattress.  In the photo above you can see that I folded and glued the edges of the bottom piece so as to not have any unfinished edges.  Glue in place.

Lastly, stitch along each edge of the mattress, creating the illusion of trim.  Again, there’s not really one “right” way to do it.  I found that by pinching the edge gently and stitching perpendicular to the edge I created the look I was going for.

And that’s it!  A realistic looking mattress ready to be fitted with sheets and blankets.  This way, even on “laundry day” your dollhouse mattress will look wonderful!

IMG_3983


Sep 12 2013

Modern Miniature Chair

IMG_3986

I’ve found it is rather difficult to find modern affordable dollhouse furniture, so I decided to try my hand at making my own.  The chair is a relatively simple construction, using wood scraps, a small amount of polyfill, scrap leather, aluminum tubing for the legs, findings or other material to cap the bottom of the legs, wood glue, and fabric adhesive.  The only other tools needed are a cutting mat, exacto knife, scissors, and ruler.

IMG_3274

IMG_3275

I did not use any particular pattern in creating the chair, but googled for some  basic standard chair dimensions (namely seat height and width).  The body of the chair was cut from basswood.  The arms and back were simply wrapped in leather and glued in place.  The seat cushion was first covered in a layer of polyfill, then wrapped in leather, and a small tube of leather was stuffed to serve as a back cushion.  Once the leather part of the chair was finished, the entire thing was set atop a wood base painted silver and four short aluminum tubes were added as legs.  The bottom of the tubes should be fitted with a cap of some sort to make it look more finished, and to keep the aluminum from scratching your wooden dollhouse floors.  I used earring stud “findings” for this purpose.

This was a pretty straightforward and simple furniture project.  With almost the entire chair covered in leather, there was no need for exact carpentry skills, and with legs attached last the height of the seat can be easily altered if needs be.  All in all, it fits pretty nicely in a modern dollhouse living room!

IMG_3985

 

 

 


Sep 12 2013

Kerbal Munny How To

 IMG_3969

Begin with a DIY Munny figure.  The basic body shape works well for the Kerbal figure, and the munny head becomes the foundation for Kerbal’s helmet.  Simply use an exacto blade to cut the front half of the vinyl, as you see below.

.IMG_3948IMG_3949

Polymer clay works fantastically to add details and modify your Munny.  In order to turn the Munny into a Kerbal suit, add polymer clay boots, a panel on the front of the suit to match Kerbal’s, and small bands around Kerbal’s wrists.  I use super sculpey and paint later, but most brands of polymer clay would work.  You could alternatively use colored clay if you want to avoid having to paint.  The vinyl body with polymer clay additions should be baked as the clay instructs.  There is just one trick to baking the vinyl- that is, it gets extremely soft while hot, and can warp if not supported properly during baking.  This is not a problem when simply adding polymer clay to the surface of the body, or anytime the vinyl shape remains “solid”.  It IS, however, very important during the baking of the helmet.

IMG_3950

IMG_3952

IMG_3951

Once the body details are added, you’re ready to move on to the helmet.  The former Munny “ears” are filled to become the speakers alongside the sides, and two ridges are added to the top of the helmet.  Baking during this stage is much more tricky.  The helmet needs to be laid on its back and supported with polyfill during baking.  If you bake the helmet standing up as you see in the photo above, it will collapse when the vinyl softens.  Speaking from experience, if and or when the vinyl shape becomes distorted, you will need to hold it in your hands (wearing oven mitts!) while hot, and gently reshape.  As the vinyl cools it will reharden.  As long as it’s in the shape you want as it cools, any distortion can be undone.  The vinyl becomes much softer and more easily distorted than the polymer clay does, so minimizing this is important to keep the clay and vinyl from separating and causing cracks or distortions.

With the body and helmet details created, the next step is to create the head of Kerbal himself.  Kerbals are essentially a cylinder with bulging eyes.  This is made of polymer clay as well, but it is much too thick to cure properly if solid.  First you will need to create the foundation of the shape from either wire mesh, or aluminum foil.  The wire mesh method is my preference.  You can shape the cylinder from mesh, adding a layer of polymer clay to the inside for strength.  Fit the head foundation inside the helmet, shaping it to the existing vinyl “neck”.  Remove the head from the helmet for baking.  Bake the foundation and two white half spheres to be used as eyes.  Once the foundation and eyes are baked and cooled, you can finish creating the head from polymer clay without the concern of being too thick to properly cure.  Insert the pre-baked eyes into the clay head, and bake.  I chose a somewhat more complex expression, with his mouth open and teeth showing.  If you are new to this, a closed mouth may be a better first choice.

IMG_3955

The next steps are painting and assembly.  First cover the entire figure (vinyl and clay alike) with one or two coats of gesso.  I prefer white gesso for any parts that will remain white or light colored, and gray gesso for any dark parts.  After gesso, sand lightly, paint any and all details with acrylic paint, and finish with a few thin coats of varnish.  For a little added detail, the “lights” in each of the top helmet protrusions were created from earring findings with rhinestones, a watch gear was added to the front suit panel, and small wire “buckles” were created for the boots.

IMG_3971

The final step was to create the Kerbal’s jet pack.  The pack itself is made of polymer clay, the “jets” are earring findings, and the straps are fabric trim.  Unfortunately the arm pieces Kerbal uses to control the pack in the game eluded me, as the angle at which Munny hands and arms bend didn’t line up as needed for this detail.

IMG_3972

And there you have it!- your very own Kerbal.  Any questions or tips, feel free to leave a comment.  I’d love to hear what others have done!