Sep 27 2013

Frozen Assets Munny Mascot

The 2013/14 hockey season is upon us, and the Frozen Assets are ready!  This will be our 10th season in the MSWHL, (the Pig is proud), and with quite a few new opponents this year it looks to be a good one.  When the illustrious founder of the Assets had to leave for the warmth of Florida, I tried to capture the Pig in all her glory as a going away gift.  Here She is:

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She is based on the pig Munny body.  The ears, snout,and body are unchanged.  The teeth are still the original Munny head, and the lips are made of polymer clay.  The skates are polymer clay boots and laces, with a basswood holder and aluminum blade.    The jersey is sewn from an old scrap of jersey fabric, with handstitched edging and lettering.  The hockey stick is made of balsa, the blade of the stick carved with an exacto blade.  The remaining details are done using acrylic paint, and the entire figure has several coats of varnish to give it a durable finish.

To end with our (admittedly somewhat strange) chant,   Go Money!!!

 

 


Sep 12 2013

Kerbal Munny How To

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Begin with a DIY Munny figure.  The basic body shape works well for the Kerbal figure, and the munny head becomes the foundation for Kerbal’s helmet.  Simply use an exacto blade to cut the front half of the vinyl, as you see below.

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Polymer clay works fantastically to add details and modify your Munny.  In order to turn the Munny into a Kerbal suit, add polymer clay boots, a panel on the front of the suit to match Kerbal’s, and small bands around Kerbal’s wrists.  I use super sculpey and paint later, but most brands of polymer clay would work.  You could alternatively use colored clay if you want to avoid having to paint.  The vinyl body with polymer clay additions should be baked as the clay instructs.  There is just one trick to baking the vinyl- that is, it gets extremely soft while hot, and can warp if not supported properly during baking.  This is not a problem when simply adding polymer clay to the surface of the body, or anytime the vinyl shape remains “solid”.  It IS, however, very important during the baking of the helmet.

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Once the body details are added, you’re ready to move on to the helmet.  The former Munny “ears” are filled to become the speakers alongside the sides, and two ridges are added to the top of the helmet.  Baking during this stage is much more tricky.  The helmet needs to be laid on its back and supported with polyfill during baking.  If you bake the helmet standing up as you see in the photo above, it will collapse when the vinyl softens.  Speaking from experience, if and or when the vinyl shape becomes distorted, you will need to hold it in your hands (wearing oven mitts!) while hot, and gently reshape.  As the vinyl cools it will reharden.  As long as it’s in the shape you want as it cools, any distortion can be undone.  The vinyl becomes much softer and more easily distorted than the polymer clay does, so minimizing this is important to keep the clay and vinyl from separating and causing cracks or distortions.

With the body and helmet details created, the next step is to create the head of Kerbal himself.  Kerbals are essentially a cylinder with bulging eyes.  This is made of polymer clay as well, but it is much too thick to cure properly if solid.  First you will need to create the foundation of the shape from either wire mesh, or aluminum foil.  The wire mesh method is my preference.  You can shape the cylinder from mesh, adding a layer of polymer clay to the inside for strength.  Fit the head foundation inside the helmet, shaping it to the existing vinyl “neck”.  Remove the head from the helmet for baking.  Bake the foundation and two white half spheres to be used as eyes.  Once the foundation and eyes are baked and cooled, you can finish creating the head from polymer clay without the concern of being too thick to properly cure.  Insert the pre-baked eyes into the clay head, and bake.  I chose a somewhat more complex expression, with his mouth open and teeth showing.  If you are new to this, a closed mouth may be a better first choice.

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The next steps are painting and assembly.  First cover the entire figure (vinyl and clay alike) with one or two coats of gesso.  I prefer white gesso for any parts that will remain white or light colored, and gray gesso for any dark parts.  After gesso, sand lightly, paint any and all details with acrylic paint, and finish with a few thin coats of varnish.  For a little added detail, the “lights” in each of the top helmet protrusions were created from earring findings with rhinestones, a watch gear was added to the front suit panel, and small wire “buckles” were created for the boots.

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The final step was to create the Kerbal’s jet pack.  The pack itself is made of polymer clay, the “jets” are earring findings, and the straps are fabric trim.  Unfortunately the arm pieces Kerbal uses to control the pack in the game eluded me, as the angle at which Munny hands and arms bend didn’t line up as needed for this detail.

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And there you have it!- your very own Kerbal.  Any questions or tips, feel free to leave a comment.  I’d love to hear what others have done!


Jan 26 2011

MUNNY Mod

I love the world of munny, and thanks to my fabulous sis in law, a mini raffy has been watching over my desk the past couple months.  This is my first mod, and so far, so good.  He’s made it through the first bake unscathed, and the bond between the clay and vinyl is even better than I was expecting.

Still to come, horns, floppy ears, a club tail, and some cute/vicious claws.